A Tale of Three Wines
Lately, I have had the pleasure to enjoy one of my favorite wines, Sauvignon Blanc, made by 3 separate wineries: Smith and Wilson, Wagner, and Sanson. I could safely say that these wines were made by friends, but they are oh so different.
And now for a little geography lesson. Sauvignon Blanc is a classic French grape. As such, most people are not familiar with it as they tend to not give the varietal for their wines (this practice was started by Robert Mondavi and its not a bad thing and the French are actually starting to do this too). Back in France, Sauvignon Blanc is grown in Bordeaux and in the Loire Valley where the famous Pouilly Fume and Sancerre are made. It is also grown extensively in the new world. To me, the finest New World examples come from either South Africa or New Zealand. In its finest form there are tons of grassy notes and citrus. It can almost seem that one is sucking on grass. This isn’t bad at all and cheaper ones just seem harsh as the grassy notes come off all wrong and yucky. Pair this wine with seafood and one is in nirvana. Now, California makes tons of Sauvignon Blanc and while nice, they tend to mute the grassy tastes thus creating a wine for the masses. This is the same effect as what they do with Gewurztraminer. While the California style is nice, I prefer the more spicy Alsatian variety. Much is the same with the Sauvignon Blanc. I love the grassy notes and the citrus, take them away and I really think it loses something.
Now, these wines are as different as sunsets.
The Sanson has a slight sweetness, and has a lot of those notes I love. This is a great wine. The nose is superb and the taste is wonderful. Again, pair with a non-oily fish or your favorite mollusk and life will be very nice. This is a wine to be served with friends.
The Smith and Wilson is far different. It strikes me as being just so classy. It is extremely smooth and was the one to make the Sanson taste sweet. It is very dry but without any harshness. It tastes like it was from New Zealand and a good one. I really like drinking this one by itself though I feel it would do very well with food, but I would refrain with any heavy sauces or Thai experiences as it is just so nice and to hide it would be a shame.
Wagner’s is the third of the triumverent. It is bone dry, crisp, fruity and tastes of grass with citrus. This wine is excellent. Like the Sanson more than the Smith and Wilson it oozes with taste. Again I would refrain from serving this with an oily fish, but perch(from Leamington) would be simply amazing. This is a superb wine.
It’s funny as I know you are expecting me to pick a winner. All are very good but if I had to I would choose the Wagner. It comes the closest to my ideal for a Sauvignon Blanc. Any of the three are superb. I actually had the Sanson first, which I thought was amazing. The Smith and Wilson was the last I tried and it knocked me over. I don’t know Dennis Sanson, but from my meetings with Harold Wagner and George Smith, they simply show the winemaker in their wine. They are both good guys and their wine shows it. Harold is a big man and made a bigger wine. George is a little reserved and so was his wine. The wines reflected the men. Both/all are quite good. Actually all three are great. Get some pickerel or some perch (local though) and a few bottles and enjoy yourself with friends. Throw some Al Green on the stereo and just enjoy yourselves. Your friend’s will love the wine and will think you are brilliant. If they know wine they may think you have found a hidden gem from Marlborough or Stellenbosch. Let them know it’s from here after they’ve had a glass or two. I can’t see any imported wine under $25/bottle really being any better.
