essex wine report

 

Well if Captain James T Kirk can update his log, so can I. It's funny, Bill Shatner may go down as Canada's finest actor. Not only as Kirk, but playing himself in “Free Enterprise” and producing two truly exceptional albums. 'Transformed Man' in the sixties and 'Has Been' rather recently. Now 'Transformed Man' is rather odd and if Mr. Spock hadn't released his albums it may have gone down as the worst of all time. 'Has Been' though is a work of art. Done with Ben Folds it is funny intelligent and inciteful. A wonderful Canadian product. What has this to do with anything??? I really don't know but I needed to add an addendum to yesterday's post so James T came to mind cos he always updated.

Well I decided to go shopping after work and bought some local pickerel. Well, it comes from the lake and Smith and Wilson is on the lake. Like the grapes talked to the fish and they got along. Do they on the plate??

I had a long day so I needed a pick me up. The pickerel looked oh so good so I bought it. Dusted it with some Old Bay and pan fried it in butter. Along with that is some basmati rice. I toasted it in some butter and turmeric with onion then added my stock. I like doing it that way. I wanted to put some Glenn Gould on the stereo but I couldn't find any albums, so it's Oliver Jones. Yes, a Montrealler like Bill Shatner, contemporary of Oscar Peterson, taught by Daisy Peterson and a nice guy( I met him). Fabulous pianist who plays...like Oscar but in his own way. Good swing.

Now the partnership between the Sauvignon Blanc and the pickerel was godlike. I am amazed loved it. With Oliver swinging, sasce(my cat) nowhere to be found, I am relaxed. The wine just is soooooooooo nice and the pickerel worked so well. I love both. My head is bobbin like Stevie Wonder to the music and I have a smile on my face.

The nose is like a spring morning, just after you cut the lawn and pick a melon with maybe a kumquat bush nearby in bloom. Its wonderful, and so laid back. It isn't “in you face” but saying “hello”.

The taste just grows and lingers on. This wine doesn't go away. I want that tird who wrote that Sauvignon Blancs are awful to try this one. There is body and depth to the nines. No harshness just grass, fruit(take your pick on the type) and then just niceness.

I LOVE THIS WINE!!!!!!!!!!! And I just envisioned Sophia Loren (circa 1960) crushing grapes in a peasants dress. This wine has just won my seal of approval as I don't see her often enough.

Lately, I have had the pleasure to enjoy one of my favorite wines, Sauvignon Blanc, made by 3 separate wineries: Smith and Wilson, Wagner, and Sanson. I could safely say that these wines were made by friends, but they are oh so different.

And now for a little geography lesson. Sauvignon Blanc is a classic French grape. As such, most people are not familiar with it as they tend to not give the varietal for their wines (this practice was started by Robert Mondavi and its not a bad thing and the French are actually starting to do this too). Back in France, Sauvignon Blanc is grown in Bordeaux and in the Loire Valley where the famous Pouilly Fume and Sancerre are made. It is also grown extensively in the new world. To me, the finest New World examples come from either South Africa or New Zealand. In its finest form there are tons of grassy notes and citrus. It can almost seem that one is sucking on grass. This isn’t bad at all and cheaper ones just seem harsh as the grassy notes come off all wrong and yucky. Pair this wine with seafood and one is in nirvana. Now, California makes tons of Sauvignon Blanc and while nice, they tend to mute the grassy tastes thus creating a wine for the masses. This is the same effect as what they do with Gewurztraminer. While the California style is nice, I prefer the more spicy Alsatian variety. Much is the same with the Sauvignon Blanc. I love the grassy notes and the citrus, take them away and I really think it loses something.

Now, these wines are as different as sunsets.

The Sanson has a slight sweetness, and has a lot of those notes I love. This is a great wine. The nose is superb and the taste is wonderful. Again, pair with a non-oily fish or your favorite mollusk and life will be very nice. This is a wine to be served with friends.

The Smith and Wilson is far different. It strikes me as being just so classy. It is extremely smooth and was the one to make the Sanson taste sweet. It is very dry but without any harshness. It tastes like it was from New Zealand and a good one. I really like drinking this one by itself though I feel it would do very well with food, but I would refrain with any heavy sauces or Thai experiences as it is just so nice and to hide it would be a shame.

Wagner’s is the third of the triumverent. It is bone dry, crisp, fruity and tastes of grass with citrus. This wine is excellent. Like the Sanson more than the Smith and Wilson it oozes with taste. Again I would refrain from serving this with an oily fish, but perch(from Leamington) would be simply amazing. This is a superb wine.

It’s funny as I know you are expecting me to pick a winner. All are very good but if I had to I would choose the Wagner. It comes the closest to my ideal for a Sauvignon Blanc. Any of the three are superb. I actually had the Sanson first, which I thought was amazing. The Smith and Wilson was the last I tried and it knocked me over. I don’t know Dennis Sanson, but from my meetings with Harold Wagner and George Smith, they simply show the winemaker in their wine. They are both good guys and their wine shows it. Harold is a big man and made a bigger wine. George is a little reserved and so was his wine. The wines reflected the men. Both/all are quite good. Actually all three are great. Get some pickerel or some perch (local though) and a few bottles and enjoy yourself with friends. Throw some Al Green on the stereo and just enjoy yourselves. Your friend’s will love the wine and will think you are brilliant. If they know wine they may think you have found a hidden gem from Marlborough or Stellenbosch. Let them know it’s from here after they’ve had a glass or two. I can’t see any imported wine under $25/bottle really being any better.

 

It was a wonderful weekend. Tso the yute and I hit 2 wineries on Saturday and 1 Sunday. Our usual schedule of 20 minutes at each winery was blown to shreds at Mastronardi: this was a good thing as we had a wonderful and educational experience with the presenter. I feel I must clarify some of my base ideas at this time so that my writings can be put into context.

First and foremost I believe that wine cannot be taken as a singular event. I read many reviewers who review wines as if they are in a protective bubble. As wine is a part of a bigger social/sensual event, I feel this approach lacks merit. True, to score a wine requires this, but I really do not believe in scores. The taste, or better, the experience of any wine is effected by the immediate atmosphere surrounding said event. That is, take a wine that I would like, say a German Riesling and have me sample it while listening to Brittany Spears Greatest Hits, eating haggis(I actually like it, but it makes a point) with my ex- wife. Now as much as I could and would like the wine I just couldn't enjoy it. Try this combo: Tso, some “Summer Sun”, bar-b-queing some shrimp, Al Green on the stereo, a sunny day and that is wonderful, actually heaven, and since Al Green is a minister now he may get us closer. All I am saying is that wine is part of a larger experience to be shared with people you care about. That my friend, makes it better.

Secondly, I really think that most of the “wine tasting” concept is bunk. If you enjoy it drink it. If I read what I am supposed to taste or smell, I tend to find those flavors. Barnyard smells in a good Pinot appeals to me as much as petrol in my good Riesling. Again, put on some nice music (whatever you like), get some friends and open a bottle or 2 or 3. Explore and drink what you like, not what I say or even the Wine Spectator. Drink what you enjoy. Simple.

Get to know the people who make your wine. If you are like me and believe that wine is made in the vineyard, find vintners who believe this too. You'll like their wine a lot more. If you like chemistry set wine, that's ok too, but I haven't met any vintner like that down here. Everyone I talk to is proud of their vines and tend to point out that the wine is made out there. This my friend is the essence of the difference between here and Australia. Please all Aussie's, I do enjoy your wine but find most of what I get here simply uninspiring.

Also, buying local supports our economy and that my friend is important. If you own a store or a restaurant or work in one, these people buy from you and keeping wine purchases local is good for all of us. I am not saying, boycott the LCBO, but if you don't need a Tuscan, Barolo, nice Napa and want a “good” bottle of wine you might as well buy here. I certainly think if you drink standard Californians or Australians you will be happier here.

Most of all: ENJOY. I worry that the tasting experience has become a religion, simply to make some people feel good that they know more than me and you. Sample, enjoy and try to have fun. Don't make it too complicated.

Oh...by the way, I got so many good wines that I will have beaucoup de reviews starting this week. I just don't know what to have first. I have Cab Francs from Mastronardi and a 2000 from Pelee Island, the 05 Pinot and Gewürztraminer (thanks for that tip) from Pelee though I fear the Pinot is way too young. The heavenly Cab Sauv from Smith and Wilson along with Pinot Gris, Grigios and various other wee little beasties. Since Liverpool destroyed Chelsea, I felt it was time to celebrate, and I did.

All last week I was wanting to write this but I was really too busy to do it. Every once in a while I venture to the Roundhouse to buy some wine. I feel that it is important to recalibrate my taste buds to the French wines which are the base wines for the area. 

 

So I got some Pinot and some Morgan and a few others and opened up the Pinot. It was from Alsace and was not cheap. Well simply stated, View Pointe's, Sprucewood's or Pelee Island's Reserve are just head and shoulder's better. Wait till I taste Mastronardi's (I was told it was available so I'll check soon) and Muscedere's (next year with Canadian oak) and I think we have product that absolutely stomps that Alsatian and all are much cheaper. That's tough for me to say as I am a big fan of Alsatian wines.

 

Then, Saturday night app and his brother came over after the auto show for a drink. Miguel is from Oakville and is a real wino, just like us. Of course, we had some of app's martinis. Just awesome: I just wish I could make them that well. I just can't do it. I contributed garlic stuffed olives from the market and I really think they put the martini's over the top.

 

After a few, I opened a bottle of Muscedere Cabernet Franc and Miguel really liked it. He knows his stuff and was simply amazed that this was their first vintage. Then I opened some Gamay Noir from Colio. He preferred the Cab Franc, but found the Gamay quite acceptable. Like I have always said: if we expose our product people will buy it. I have yet to find someone who isn't pleasantly surprised by our wine when they try it.

 

Saturday afternoon, tso and I went wine buying and again we saw people from Ohio at a winery. I find it amazing that they drive around the lake to get here. It just seems that they "get it". My point is 1) how did they find out faster than the most locals and 2) how do we reach them better. Marketing has to be done to reach them as they may be "our market". I find it odd that we miss Detroit and reach Dayton. Maybe they just like to road trip.

 

I really think the tourism types have done a lousy job getting the word out. Though they haven't done too well, the biggest crime is the border. We get people from Ohio who come despite the stupid no smoking laws (no I don't smoke, I just believe in property rights), the pie police and high taxes; yet Detroiters stay home. Why?? Last week it took me 45 minutes to clear customs and all the booths were open. Saturday, the line for the tunnel was about 4 blocks long at 1 pm. Maybe the people from Ohio accept this better as it is part of a longer trip but I know it affects Detroiters. We must somehow get a short term fix. Is a ferry feasible??? I just don't know and the Delray bridge will take years to complete as the call for designers went out only last week.

 

I guess I must be positive. The wine is getting better, the wineries that opened this year are great and seem busy and everyone seems positive. Erie Shores open house was great and well attended. The wine festival was great fun too!!! The 05's are greatly anticipated as it was a great year and the whites are just trickling out. All in all things are getting better here and will improve . I am eagerly looking forward to the new wines and feel real good about the coming year and revisiting some of the vineyards I've neglected.

Several weeks ago tso was able to procure some prototype wine that is not quite available yet. It will be soon and when it is I suggest you buy as much as fast as you can. I'll keep the vintner secret for now...only tso and I know.

 

Well this wine is something that I should have hated. First it was a chardonnay which until recently I basically refused to drink (due to all the over-oaked paint thinner that only the Aussie's could make so bad) and on top of that it was oaked.

 

Wait until it comes out and the oak will be exposed. Let me say the oak is definitely not the wood chips which are now being used by some evil vintners which give that awful taste. The chosen oak has a real impact on this wine. The nose of this wine is oak. It smelled like fine furniture to me. It had a luscious, rich aroma which made me worry that this too was way over oaked. No No No No!!!!!!

 

The initial taste was a rich, chardonnay taste with the vanilla overtones of the oak. But it wasn't overpowering. It was right on. Perfect. There was no harshness, it just built on your tongue then faded away. All the oak was there but in no way does it dominate. This in no way resembles an Aussie oak fest nor the swill from California that tastes like a tree. It has restraint in droves. The standard chardonnay is very nice: add this oak and its great. There is less oak effect than Aleksander's which is another fine example of restraint.

 

What can I say. Tso loves it and feels that this will be the best wine in the county when it is formally released. I cannot argue too much but there is stiff competition from Wagner's Sauvignon Blanc, Muscedere's Riesling and Sanson's Bird Dog. All I can say is that I will buy a case when it is released.

I hope that everyone had a wonderful Holiday Season. Mine was wonderful and except for a slight case of the plague it was a great time.

 

Let me start with the wine. Through further research and testing, it appears that most people are quite happy with the wine made here. Actually they quite enjoy it.

On Christmas, I served Raspberry wine to start, then some Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Chardonnay and two Ice Wines: Raspberry and Vidal. Now, all was taken very well with questions like: how can I get this in Michigan and this is gooood. Well I also brought some of Harold's strudel which is ‘food for the gods'. I love the stuff and anyone who had Germanic or Eastern European blood just dived at it. Add Harold's Raspberry Ice Wine and oi!, magnifique! Oh in a pinch Muscedere's Ice Wine worked ok too(yeah actually people stayed to have some--it's wonderful) . Its funny, the local ice wine goes over sooo well, I find it a little lighter and not as sweet as the Niagara varieties and this seems to be really agreeable to my guests.

 

On New Year's Eve, more strudel was required and along with that was some Cider. Yes local cider. It's very good and long wanted. See Harold (oops Wagner Estate) and get some. It's quite like the English ciders and that's good. I still long for what Woodchuck does but hey I can get that in Detroit. Nuff said, but Harold has hit several home runs lately and that's great, because he is really doing some innovative things. Bravo Harold.

 

Now the sadness. I really think that Ice Wine this year is out of the question. The Star has been writing articles about this and yes I believe them. Talking to some winemakers prior to Christmas, they tried to be optimistic but they knew then but were only hoping. So what happens---- well: 1) I get to sleep as I was a ‘picker recruit' and 2) we will get some very interesting late harvest wines. Here is the good part for us; late harvest wines are generally very superb. They tend to be thick, sweet, complex and just wonderful. Germans make wonderful ones so the day isn't totally lost. My only fear is for the wineries as the ice wine must account for a sizable chunk of their profits so lets just support them more so they are ok. We will get some Ice Wine I bet but it'll be expensive and variable quality. If the birds and rot don't get the remaining berries there may be some beautiful stuff available but not much of it. That is sad.

 

But let's be positive here. Our wine is getting better and better every year. The new wineries are all excellent. The older ones are still improving. This is good, very good. drive around Harrow and the land for sale is being advertised as grape land. How long until we get another few wineries. I hope they come soon cos I love the stuff.